High purity Chenopodium Quinoa Saponins can be formulated with many common cosmetic ingredients. The increasing awareness of the potential harmful effects on the mouth mucosa of the traditional synthetic surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate has fueled the need for its replacement with milder surfactants, with an acceptable taste in the mouth. Chenopodium Quinoa saponins are generally compatible with hydrotropes used in toothpastes, such as xylitol, glycerine and sorbitol, up to 20%.High purity Chenopodium Quinoa Saponins can be formulated with many common cosmetic ingredients. The increasing awareness of the potential harmful effects on the mouth mucosa of the traditional synthetic surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate has fueled the need for its replacement with milder surfactants, with an acceptable taste in the mouth. Chenopodium Quinoa saponins are generally compatible with hydrotropes used in toothpastes, such as xylitol, glycerine and sorbitol, up to 20%.

Purified C. Quinoa triterpenic saponins, used alone, have an average foaming power which is about 20% lower than for most high-foaming surfactants. Yet a blend prepared with coco-glucoside, in the ratio 90:10 with saponins, has foaming power better than that prepared with SLES. Foam quality remains optimal, i.e. small, homogeneous bubbles.

In another set of trials, a 18% solution of saponins with 5% tocopherol forms an opaque gel that turns into a stable milk when diluted in water. Foundation formulations, where the pigment wetting properties of C. Quinoa saponins were exploited, produced interesting skin adhesion and a natural looking appearance.

EMULSION STABILITY

Several experiments have been carried out to establish the possibilities for using high purity C. Quinoa saponins in innovative emulsions. Triglycerides like almond and rice oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil and a proprietary blend of meadow foam seed oil with shea butter extract (Fancol VB) can be emulsified at 20%. For the largely hydrophilic properties of C. Quinoa saponins, they need to be blended with lipophilic emulsifiers. Among the many tested, the best performers were steareth-2, polglyceryl-3 stearate and sucrose distearate, at 3.75% in formula, blended with 0.45% saponins. Cetyl alcohol at 1% and xanthan gum at 0.2 were also added as long-term formula stabilizers.

Stable systems were obtained both by using the mentioned individual oils alone as fatty phases but also with their 1:1 blends. In general, blends had better resistance in the stability trials at high temperatures (43°C). The vegetal oils reported above can also host 25% of the total fatty phase as constituted by other oils (as isostearyl alcohol and hydrogenated polydecene) that, when used alone, induced instability in previous experiments. Trials aimed to reduce the amount of internal oil phase in the formulae were unsatisfactory.

In contrast, using 30% oil phase, 4.7% emulsifier and 1% saponins provided generally stable emulsions, even at high temperatures. C. Quinoa saponins seem suitable to emulsify very high amounts (30% and more) of vegetal oils that are often difficult to introduce in emulsions. They also provide a light skin feel during application. In many cases, co-emulsifiers from natural sources like polglyceryl-3 stearate and sucrose distearate can be used, making it possible to follow an organic formulation strategy. Many formulations have been prepared and are now in stability testing.

APPLICATIONS

High purity C. Quinoa saponins, provide skin compatible and environmentally friendly surfactants with a low toxicity profile but with innovative performances, seem to represent the long searched for alternative to synthetic surfactants. They have potential applications in cleansing systems, toothpastes and mouthwash. Interaction with thickeners, surfactants and sparingly soluble molecules, especially when they exhibit glycosidic groups in their structure, can open the way various new formulation experiments.Applications in emulsions seem to offer the most potential in complex blends. Formulations of normalizing and anti-dandruff shampoo, conditioners, cleansing fluids and oral care have been prepared.

APPLICATION SAMPLE

Amazon Wipes

There’s been a surge of new product launches in the wipes segment – for example, pet grooming wipes, wipes to clean children’s toys and wipes to clean sleep apnea masks. Most of the new launches are geared to babies/kids or sensitive skin applications and a common theme is that they are being marketed as natural products.

THI’s high purity Chenopodium Quinoa Saponins are a perfect fit for natural cleansing wipes. C. Quinoa Saponins are 100% natural, an efficient cleanser and extremely mild to skin.

Cleansing Wipe
Trade Name % W/W
Deionized Water 98.92
C. Quinoa Saponins 0.30
Plantservative 0.50
Citric Acid 50% 0.28

Procedure: Add ingredients one by one into a vessel and mix until uniform…”